Displacement

Picked up my Fineline hull from Graham at Shelter today first hull I've ever bought hopefully the waves will pick up in the next few days.

The Sea it brings me back to you

Carlsbad camping and early San O story onshore winds from this past weekend

Grabbin Gears

Well things come and things go, I sold my rhino to get out of debt and am much more relieved. Bought some rear tires finally for the Coupe. Gonna really start plugging away at it as long as work stays somewhat busy. Next plans are to pull everything off the frame and de rake it back to stock the stink bug look is just not my style did a lil photoshop of how it should look and here are some pics of how it looks.

Innocent Vigilent Ordinary

"Oh No I Said I Think About The Times...."

Treked it down to San O saturday afternoon. Biznitchel, Ryan, Nicols, Drew Bitch, Dewey and Danielle all where there. I marinated my carne asada I always did and played dad. We surfed for about 4 hours saturday. It was good to all get out 5 guys all having a good time despite the high tide and walled surf....we made the best of it. Sunday morning didnt offer as good of surf a strong onshore flow mixed with a weird draining tide crapped it up pretty good. But in the afternoon I headed to Shelter Surf Shop to get fitted for my Reunion 3/2 fullsuit super stoked on that should be bitchen I always have a hard time buying suits cause my greek god of a body is not of the common man I have shorter arms and legs that of a dwarf HA HA larges always seem to be a bit long in the arms. Either way the suit should come out Killer Yo got my order and should be here end of next month. Thanks again to Grahm and Kim Day of Shelter it was a pleasure getting fitted.....and drooling over the Hulls that temp me each time is always fun too.

Pride and Joy and lost virtue?

Its been awhile since posting. Havent been up to much money is tite feel like I'm in the great depression just been surfing as much as I can its the cheapest and most gratifying thing I can do at this point and time. Really want to get my 31 coupe finished up but the time to grow up has come and I have to save my money this recession has really opened my eyes to the hardships that life can throw at us. All you can do is take it one day at a time and not stress too much. I go to Hawleywood's Once a month and meet with my friend Travis AKA Noodle to get our hair done. Its nice to have some sort of a tradition like that. We have been friends since grade school and both still make the time to get together even if its just to watch each other get our doo's did and grab a few beers afterwards. I gotta say Eli at Hawleywood's is the man. I have much respect for anyone that enjoys and takes pride in their job. The experiance there is top notch it takes you back in time. Its my favorite time of the month. Not much for photo's this month just a pic of my dooooo and some old photo's i've saved off google. Hopefully will have some San O pics up after our camp trip this weekend.

Meet and Greet

Today I went to the Ruffrodders.com BBQ hosted by Eean at Champion speed shop in Costa Mesa. I was very humbled to have such a warm group of people that all have the same passion treat me so well. Special thanks to Markie for the warm welcoming and introductions. It was great to meet guys like Rob, Arie, and Derek. All great guys with the same interests. Hope everyone had a safe trip back to the corners they came from. Here are a few pictures I took.

Lost Forever

Picture above taken off of cyclezombies blog...them were the days

We headed up the coast this last friday to camp Malibu Creek campground. My truck was already packed due to the cancelation of Bonneville. I loaded up my surfboards and headed up mid day friday. I have never surfed above El Segundo and was very excited to surf Malibu Point finally. When we got there it was just as I imagined. A perfect right pealing peak for a good 200-300 yards. As we walked through the block wall entrance I realized these were the same steps legends such as Miki Dora, Phill Edwards, Greg Knoll and many others took to surf this great break. It was crowded which was expected. We surfed for probably a good 2 hours before it got dark then proceeded to head up Malibu Canyon road to the camp ground. The Campground was very nice and peacefull rolling grass hills with Oak tree's spread about. The next morning we woke up and went back to Malibu to surf once again a blast....until some hodad cut me off and took his fin through the nose of my brand new board. Bummed I got out of the water and got my short board and surfed the break farther north up the beach.

Its sad to see such a seminal place...that holds such magic and history over populated like it was. Miki Doras mindset was all right. Movies like Gidget, and the surf craze that hit in the mid 50s ruined the seclusion and unknown all these places had. I wish I had gotten to see these places before all this happened I wish I got to surf the breaks before they were crowded....Theres places out there just gotta go find them I guess.