Picture above taken off of cyclezombies blog...them were the days
We headed up the coast this last friday to camp Malibu Creek campground. My truck was already packed due to the cancelation of Bonneville. I loaded up my surfboards and headed up mid day friday. I have never surfed above El Segundo and was very excited to surf Malibu Point finally. When we got there it was just as I imagined. A perfect right pealing peak for a good 200-300 yards. As we walked through the block wall entrance I realized these were the same steps legends such as Miki Dora, Phill Edwards, Greg Knoll and many others took to surf this great break. It was crowded which was expected. We surfed for probably a good 2 hours before it got dark then proceeded to head up Malibu Canyon road to the camp ground. The Campground was very nice and peacefull rolling grass hills with Oak tree's spread about. The next morning we woke up and went back to Malibu to surf once again a blast....until some hodad cut me off and took his fin through the nose of my brand new board. Bummed I got out of the water and got my short board and surfed the break farther north up the beach.
Its sad to see such a seminal place...that holds such magic and history over populated like it was. Miki Doras mindset was all right. Movies like Gidget, and the surf craze that hit in the mid 50s ruined the seclusion and unknown all these places had. I wish I had gotten to see these places before all this happened I wish I got to surf the breaks before they were crowded....Theres places out there just gotta go find them I guess.
Every once in a while, my dad will tell me stories of the hey day.. His brother...who'd drive out to the L.A. beaches with his Woody wagon and surf board in the late '50s. And my aunt who dated Eddie Cochran's brother... My dad himself had the fastest car in El Monte...Rock n roll, surfing and cars was what life was about then ;-)
ReplyDeleteNow people do nothing but work, then come home to watch t.v. I hope I never become that person. I like to discover stuff not so mundane.
I do hope you get the chance to find these hidden beaches where the surf is high and there's no pollution from the unthankful kind of crowd...You just have to make it a point one morning to start driving :-)
Agreed.... I read these books about the day when there were 2 people out at point break like Malibu and state beach where ud sleep on the beach all night in your wagon wake up and surf and sleep all day..... And drive up n down the coast finding waves....
ReplyDeleteThese days of Cali are almost gone time to head north!
What book was that? I love literature like "On the Road"...
ReplyDeleteAll for a few perfect waves a bio on miki Dora by David rensin very good even if u don't like surfing guy was a character and pivotal person in surfing
ReplyDeleteThe county library has a few copies...I put a hold on one...I should get it in a week. :-)
ReplyDeleteDa cat was a crazy pivitol character
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